The pretty parts of the plumbing system--ceramic tile, soap dishes and towel bars, and the porcelainized surfaces of fixtures--need repairs as much as the pipes. Gleaming chrome dulls with layers of mineral deposits; ceramic or porcelain enamel is discolored by rust stains--usually because of a dripping faucet that should have been repaired--or by chemicals in water. A hair dryer slips from the hand--and you have a chipped bathtub. Ceramic tiles may even loosen and fall from the wall because of poor installation or the cumulative effects of time and humidity.
And one of the most common bathroom repairs--sealing cracks in the joint between the bathtub and the wall-- is a repetitive chore because of changes in the weight of the tub as it is filled and emptied again and again.
Whatever job you tackle, take practical precautions. Wear goggles when you shatter a tile; wear gloves when you work with powerful cleansers or wet grout. And when surrounded by the brittle surfaces of a bathroom, handle heavy tools with special care--a single slip can add a new repair job.
Replacing A Ceramic Tile
1. Removing the tile: Using a hammer and cold chisel and wearing goggles, smash the center of the tile, then pry out the pieces. If a tile falls out in one piece and can be reused, scrape away the old cement on its back. Remove all loose or uneven cement from the tile bed.
2. Resetting the tile: Apply tile adhesive to the back of the tile and holding it by its edges, set it into its place so that it is even with the adjacent tiles. If the tile does not have little spacer lugs on two sides, place toothpicks in the joint to space it. Let the tile glue dry overnight.
3. Applying the grout: use already-mixed tile grout to fill and seal the joint spaces around the new tile. First force the grout into the joints with the tip of your finger, then use a moist cloth or window squeegee to remove the surplus grout from the tiles on either side.
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