If you are planning on building a new home or just remodeling your existing home one of the tougher decisions you may have is choosing the right pipe for your project. Not all piping is created equal, there are several different flavors on the market today that are old, new and true so which is right for you? If you have your own well the first thing you should do is get a water sample and send it in to your state water testing facility. They will test your water for hardness, types of metals that are in your water and the ph or acidity levels. If your acidity levels are high I would definitely recommend staying away from any metal piping such as copper or galvanized. Use any of the following plastic pipes and tubing below. More about active water in a moment. CPVC: This was the first plastic to cut into the copper market, as a matter of fact, my house was originally plumb with cpvc piping. The problem I had with this piping is after 15 years of use and when I finally had to make a repair to the system, it crack three foot down the pipe when I made my cut with ratcheting scissors.PEX tubing: This is the king of all of the plastics as far as I am concern. I love this stuff. It is also the fastest to install over any other pipes or tubing's on the market today. Although the tools to install this type of tubing is quite costly.
Let's talk a bit about my favorite piping, the old but true metal pipe copper. Besides Galvanized, this is the stuff all of us old timers cut our teeth on and if you have a home that is thirty years or older, more than likely this is the type of water supply you have in your home. Copper commonly comes in roll tubing in boxes of 25 feet to 100 feet per box or rigid sticks of 10' to 20' feet in length. There are three grades of copper pipe: Type K, is the thickest of the three pipes. It has green lettering on pipe and is the most expensive. L piping has blue lettering and M has red lettering. L and M grade copper is the most commonly used in residential plumbing. The common use with type K is in industrial plumbing systems or refrigeration. Low bidders usually use type M copper pipe. Diameter References:
Copper comes in both inside (ID) and outside diameters (OD). Plumbers use ID diameters, while HVAC Installers use OD for the same tubing. The Common ½-in. copper tubing used in residential plumbing is also referred to as 5/8- in. tubing in the HVAC industry.
Repair
For the home owner, repairing any of the above pipes and tubing mention in this article is a snap. Purchase "shark bites" fitting and the u shaped tool to mend or add to any part of your system. Shark bite fittings can be found at your local plumbing shop. They are a little costly, but you will make the cost back in time and ease of use.
In the last few years Copper has been getting a bad name because acidic water or active water will corrode the pipe.
Plus the EPA commission has listed copper as contaminate. It is my understanding that the maximum level of copper, according to EPA standards, is 1.3 parts per million (1.3 mg/L). Copper tubing should not be installed for water piping systems having acidic water conditions with a pH of 8.5 or less. Private wells and mountain communities can have a pH of less than 6.5 This is why I recommend that you test the pH of your water if you plan to use copper or any type of metal piping for your potable water system.
If you are on a community water system, check with your local authorities for recommendations. I also recommend, not to install metal piping without conditioning the water with an acid neutralizer first. Rigid copper needs to be solder. If you are not familiar with the soldering procedure involved in making a leak free joint then I recommend that you call your local plumber to install or repair your plumbing system.
Pipes and Tubing's: Choose Your Flavor Pipes and Tubing's: Choose Your Flavor
If you are planning on building a new home or just remodeling your existing home one of the tougher decisions you may have is choosing the right pipe for your project. Not all piping is created equal, there are several different flavors on the market today that are old, new and true so which is right for you?
If you have your own well the first thing you should do is get a water sample and send it in to your state water testing facility. They will test your water for hardness, types of metals that are in your water and the ph or acidity levels.
If your acidity levels are high I would definitely recommend staying away from any metal piping such as copper or galvanized. Use any of the following plastic pipes and tubing below. More about active water in a moment.
CPVC: This was the first plastic to cut into the copper market, as a matter of fact, my house was originally plumb with cpvc piping. The problem I had with this piping is after 15 years of use and when I finally had to make a repair to the system, it crack three foot down the pipe when I made my cut with ratcheting scissors.
PEX tubing: This is the king of all of the plastics as far as I am concern. I love this stuff. It is also the fastest to install over any other pipes or tubing's on the market today. Although the tools to install this type of tubing is quite costly.
Let's talk a bit about my favorite piping, the old but true metal pipe copper. Besides Galvanized, this is the stuff all of us old timers cut our teeth on and if you have a home that is thirty years or older, more than likely this is the type of water supply you have in your home.
Copper commonly comes in roll tubing in boxes of 25 feet to 100 feet per box or rigid sticks of 10' to 20' feet in length.
There are three grades of copper pipe:
Type K, is the thickest of the three pipes. It has green lettering on pipe and is the most expensive. L piping has blue lettering and M has red lettering. L and M grade copper is the most commonly used in residential plumbing. The common use with type K is in industrial plumbing systems or refrigeration. Low bidders usually use type M copper pipe.
Diameter References:
Copper comes in both inside (ID) and outside diameters (OD). Plumbers use ID diameters, while HVAC Installers use OD for the same tubing. The Common 1/2-in. copper tubing used in residential plumbing is also referred to as 5/8- in. tubing in the HVAC industry.
Repair
For the home owner, repairing any of the above pipes and tubing mention in this article is a snap. Purchase "shark bites" fitting and the u shaped tool to mend or add to any part of your system. Shark bite fittings can be found at your local plumbing shop. They are a little costly, but you will make the cost back in time and ease of use.
In the last few years Copper has been getting a bad name because acidic water or active water will corrode the pipe.
Plus the EPA commission has listed copper as contaminate. It is my understanding that the maximum level of copper, according to EPA standards, is 1.3 parts per million (1.3 mg/L).
Copper tubing should not be installed for water piping systems having acidic water conditions with a pH of 8.5 or less. Private wells and mountain communities can have a pH of less than 6.5 This is why I recommend that you test the pH of your water if you plan to use copper or any type of metal piping for your potable water system.
If you are on a community water system, check with your local authorities for recommendations.
I also recommend, not to install metal piping without conditioning the water with an acid neutralizer first.
Rigid copper needs to be solder. If you are not familiar with the soldering procedure involved in making a leak free joint then I recommend that you call your local plumber to install or repair your plumbing system.
If you are planning on building a new home or just remodeling your existing home one of the tougher decisions you may have is choosing the right pipe for your project. Not all piping is created equal, there are several different flavors on the market today that are old, new and true so which is right for you?
If you have your own well the first thing you should do is get a water sample and send it in to your state water testing facility. They will test your water for hardness, types of metals that are in your water and the ph or acidity levels.
If your acidity levels are high I would definitely recommend staying away from any metal piping such as copper or galvanized. Use any of the following plastic pipes and tubing below. More about active water in a moment.
CPVC: This was the first plastic to cut into the copper market, as a matter of fact, my house was originally plumb with cpvc piping. The problem I had with this piping is after 15 years of use and when I finally had to make a repair to the system, it crack three foot down the pipe when I made my cut with ratcheting scissors.
PEX tubing: This is the king of all of the plastics as far as I am concern. I love this stuff. It is also the fastest to install over any other pipes or tubing's on the market today. Although the tools to install this type of tubing is quite costly.
Let's talk a bit about my favorite piping, the old but true metal pipe copper. Besides Galvanized, this is the stuff all of us old timers cut our teeth on and if you have a home that is thirty years or older, more than likely this is the type of water supply you have in your home.
Copper commonly comes in roll tubing in boxes of 25 feet to 100 feet per box or rigid sticks of 10' to 20' feet in length.
There are three grades of copper pipe:
Type K, is the thickest of the three pipes. It has green lettering on pipe and is the most expensive. L piping has blue lettering and M has red lettering. L and M grade copper is the most commonly used in residential plumbing. The common use with type K is in industrial plumbing systems or refrigeration. Low bidders usually use type M copper pipe.
Diameter References:
Copper comes in both inside (ID) and outside diameters (OD). Plumbers use ID diameters, while HVAC Installers use OD for the same tubing. The Common 1/2-in. copper tubing used in residential plumbing is also referred to as 5/8- in. tubing in the HVAC industry.
Repair
For the home owner, repairing any of the above pipes and tubing mention in this article is a snap. Purchase "shark bites" fitting and the u shaped tool to mend or add to any part of your system. Shark bite fittings can be found at your local plumbing shop. They are a little costly, but you will make the cost back in time and ease of use.
In the last few years Copper has been getting a bad name because acidic water or active water will corrode the pipe.
Plus the EPA commission has listed copper as contaminate. It is my understanding that the maximum level of copper, according to EPA standards, is 1.3 parts per million (1.3 mg/L).
Copper tubing should not be installed for water piping systems having acidic water conditions with a pH of 8.5 or less. Private wells and mountain communities can have a pH of less than 6.5 This is why I recommend that you test the pH of your water if you plan to use copper or any type of metal piping for your potable water system.
If you are on a community water system, check with your local authorities for recommendations.
I also recommend, not to install metal piping without conditioning the water with an acid neutralizer first.
Rigid copper needs to be solder. If you are not familiar with the soldering procedure involved in making a leak free joint then I recommend that you call your local plumber to install or repair your plumbing system.
Type K, is the thickest of the three pipes. It has green lettering on pipe and is the most expensive. L piping has blue lettering and M has red lettering. L and M grade copper is the most commonly used in residential plumbing. The common use with type K is in industrial plumbing systems or refrigeration. Low bidders usually use type M copper pipe.
Diameter References:
Copper comes in both inside (ID) and outside diameters (OD). Plumbers use ID diameters, while HVAC Installers use OD for the same tubing. The Common 1/2-in. copper tubing used in residential plumbing is also referred to as 5/8- in. tubing in the HVAC industry.
Repair
For the home owner, repairing any of the above pipes and tubing mention in this article is a snap. Purchase "shark bites" fitting and the u shaped tool to mend or add to any part of your system. Shark bite fittings can be found at your local plumbing shop. They are a little costly, but you will make the cost back in time and ease of use.
In the last few years Copper has been getting a bad name because acidic water or active water will corrode the pipe. Plus the EPA commission has listed copper as contaminate. It is my understanding that the maximum level of copper, according to EPA standards, is 1.3 parts per million (1.3 mg/L).
Copper tubing should not be installed for water piping systems having acidic water conditions with a pH of 8.5 or less. Private wells and mountain communities can have a pH of less than 6.5 This is why I recommend that you test the pH of your water if you plan to use copper or any type of metal piping for your potable water system.
If you are on a community water system, check with your local authorities for recommendations. I also recommend, not to install metal piping without conditioning the water with an acid neutralizer first.
Rigid copper needs to be solder. If you are not familiar with the soldering procedure involved in making a leak free joint then I recommend that you call your local plumber to install or repair your plumbing system.
William Cato, has been working in the Plumbing industry since 1984 and has been a professional plumber for the last seventeen years. He specializes in Repair and remodel plumbing. William is currently working for a contractor from Denver North Carolina.
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